Hair Perming Making straight hair curly is not a new idea. Women in Ancient Egypt coated their hair in mud, wound it around wooden rods and then used the heat from the sun to create curls. Waves that won't wash out are a more recent innovation. Improved formulations and evermore sophisticated techniques have made perms the most versatile styling option in hairdressing. How Perm Works: Perms work by breaking down inner structures (links) in your hair and re-forming them around a curler to give a new shape. Hair should be washed prior to perming as this causes the scales on the cuticles to rise gently, allowing the perming lotin to enter the hair shaft more quickly. The perming lotion alters the keratin and breaks down the sulphur bonds that link the fibre-like cells together in the inner layers of each hair. When these fibres have become loose, they can be formed into a new shape when the hair is stretched over a curler or perming rod. Once the curlers or rods are in place, more lotion is applied and the perm is left to develop to fix the new shape. The development time varies according to the condition and texture of the hair. When the development is complete, the changed links in the hair are reformed into their new shape by the application of a second chemical known as the neutralizer. The neutralizer contains an ozidizing agent that is effectively responsible for closing up the broken links and producing the wave or curl - permanently. The type of curl that is produced depends on a number of factors. The size of the curler is perhaps the most important as this determines the size of the curl. Generally speaking the smaller the curler the smaller and therefore tighter the curl, whereas medium to large curlers tend to give a much looser effect. The strength of lotion can also make a difference, as can the texture and type of hair. Hair in good condition takes a perm much better than hair in poor condition, and fine hair curls more easily than coarse hair. After a perm it takes 48 hours for the keratin in the hair to harden naturally. At this time the hair is vulnerable to damage and must be treated with care. Resist shampooing, brushing or combing, blow-drying or setting, which may cause the perm to drop. Once hair h as been permed it remains curly and shaped the way it has been formed, although new growth will be straight. As time goes by the curl can soften, and if the hair is long its weight may make the curl and the wave appear much looser. Home Versus Salon Perming: Perming is such a delicate, and potentially hazardous operation that the majority of women prefer to leave it in the hands of experienced professional hairdressers. The advantages of having hair permed in a salon are several. The hair is first analyzed to fine out whether it is in good enough condition to take a perm,coloured, out-of-condition or over-processed hair may well be damaged even more by a perm. With a perm carried out by a professional there is also a greater variety in the type of curl and texture you can choose, different strengths of lotion and different winding techniques all give a range of curls that are not generally available in home perms. 1. Rules For Home Perming: If you do use a perm at home, it is essential that you read the instructions that are supplied with the product and that you follow them very carefully. Remember to do a test curl to check whether your hair is suitable, and check to make certain you have enough curlers. You will probably want to enlist the help of a friend, as it is impossible to curl the back sections of your own hair properly, so you will definitely need a helping hand. Timing is crucial, don't be tempted to remove the lotion before the time given or leave it on longer than directed. 2. Salon Perms - The Choices: Professional hairdressers can offer a number of different types of perm that are not available for home use: i. Acid Perms: These produce highly conditioned, flexible curls. Ideally suited to hair that is fine, sensitive, fragile, damaged or tinted, they have a mildly acidic action that minimizes the risk of hair damage. ii. Alkaline Perms: These give strong, firm curl results on normal and resistant hair. iii. Exothermic Perms: For bouncy, resilient curls, "exothermic" refers to the gentle heat that is produced by the chemical reaction that occurs when the lotion is mixed. The heat allows the lotion to penetrate the hair cuticle, which will have the effect of conditioning and strengthening the hair from inside as the lotion moulds the hair into its new shape. Hair Perming Techniques  |